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A Goldilocks’ Guide To Iceland, Part I

March 28, 2009

 A Goldilocks Guide To Iceland, Part I Everyone has been asking me about Iceland; my friends, my boyfriends’ Australian football team and one of my favorite food bloggers. Everyone is asking where to stay, when to go and what to eat. This is of course a hard thing to answer but now is a great time to visit because the Kroner is so low. Iceland is one of the most beautiful places on earth, and if you are not afraid of wind and a bit of cold there is no bad time to visit. Granted you could get stuck with bad weather, but that can happen anywhere. Well, at least that is what Icelanders tell themselves. I will tell you the same, but if money is of no concern then the summer months are particularly special, because the mountains are impossibly blue and the pastures intensely green, and the oceans pastel. The same beauty can be found in the winter but it is transient because the daylight is limited with this said you can experience hour long sunsets where the light is so impossible warm and peachy it can cling to the landscape for many hours.

In terms of where to stay, I recommend the wonderful farm stay Iceland has, where you can stay at various farms around the country, many are set up as stylish hostiles in some of the most breathtaking places on earth. Not only that, they are inexpensive and the farmers are friendly.

In terms of food this is a hard thing to answer. As a food blogger I get a bit stressed about recommending restaurants, because frankly, Icelanders as a rule do not go out that often to eat because it is too expensive and when they do they want something fancy and decidedly not traditional. They do however go out for coffee and cake, which is a great way to spend an afternoon in Reykjavik. With this said there a lot of great Icelandic places to eat, and because Icelandic food is locally sourced you cannot go wrong if you order fish or lamb.

 A Goldilocks Guide To Iceland, Part I Fishing Boats In Reykjavik’s Harbor with a Family of Ducks!

Truth be told, the best dish I ever had in Iceland was boiled fish with butter. It does not get any better than that. I grew up HATING fish, so much so, that I would groan audibly when my mother would serve us frozen cod casserole (sorry mom). When my grandfather told me that Icelandic fish was a whole other story because it was so fresh, I did not believe him (goodness I was bratty!). Going to Iceland with my grandparents at the age of 10 was a seminal experience; it was the first time I had ever been on a real vacation and the first time that I recall tasting fresh fish. I remember waking after the night flight in the afternoon with the smell of fish in the air, I was hungry and skeptical. Boiled fish? Goodness I was proven wrong it was one of the best meals I have ever had. I will always remember it, and I love my grandfather for serving it to me. I cannot say like Anthony Bourdain that he knew he was going to be a chef after tasting a fresh oyster on a boat in France but it certainly left an impression on me; that freshness and simplicity are the key to good food. I remember going on and on to my grandfather about how fresh fish was entirely different then the frozen fish my mother bought at Lloyd’s. As you might guess, I went on and on about things then too, I almost have to wipe a tear when I think about how important and smart my grandfather made me feel. I was only 13 when he passed away but I will never forget that trip to Iceland with him and my grandmother.

You cannot get better cod or haddock or monk fish then in Iceland, so if you are at restaurant order it, you will be rewarded. Or better yet ask the server what fish is freshest. Icelanders’ eat a lot of fish and dairy products; they are also one of the longest living people on earth. Icelandic dairy products are grass-fed and because of this they are packed full of healthy omega 3′s just like the fish they consume. This must be the secret to their longevity. My grandmother’s oldest friend is an active woman in her 90′s. I asked her what she has for breakfast each day and she told me: “Yogurt and toast.”

Icelandic yogurt is amazing; it is less sweet then our American version and is made with full fat milk which makes the yogurt creamy. I prefer more fat then corn syrup personally, especially if the fat is grass-fed. If you want to really experience an Icelandic staple, you can try Skyr, in Icelandic homes it is whipped with sugar and served with whole cream on top. Skyr is a fat free, fresh cheese curd type thing. It is hard to explain, it tastes a lot like yogurt but is filled with protein. If you were training for a strong man competition you might want to eat a lot of this! I recommend going to a supermarket and getting yogurt to try, it is well worth it!

This brings me to my recipe which uses fresh whipped cream which is something all Icelanders consume a lot of. Nothing tastes as good as Icelandic whipped cream. Icelandic Pancakes, which are very similar to French crepes but Icelanders serve them either rolled with sugar, or with fruit jam and freshly whipped cream.
3379576319 c52db275b6 o A Goldilocks Guide To Iceland, Part I

My great grandmother’s Icelandic Pancakes



Icelandic Pancakes

Ingredients:
1 cup flour
3 eggs
2 cups milk
1/4 cup melted butter
Preparation: mix to together making sure not to mix it too well. Using a crepe pan, pour about 1/4 cup of batter onto the pan and smooth out and cook until done, flipping midway.
For filling
heavy cream, whipped(no sugar needed)
a nice jam, I like wild fruit preserves
To assemble you place jam on one quarter of the pancake, add cream and fold four ways.

More to come on Iceland!

Print Post Print Post
March 28, 2009 | Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL. Posted in: Dessert, Iceland, Icelandic

Written by Ulla

Ulla Kjarval is a photographer, social media consultant and food writer who grew up on a sheep and rabbit farm in Upstate, NY. After graduating from college and living a year in her native Iceland, she moved back to New York City to work in the arts where she helped to curate and promote international and traveling art exhibitions. In 2006, along with her sister Melkorka Kjarval, she founded Sheepdog Print & Design, LLC, a company specializing in web design, photography and social media strategy.

View all posts by: Ulla

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  • Sara

    Those pancakes sound heavenly! I much prefer pancakes (Icelandic or not) with whipped cream, powdered sugar, or fruit over maple syrup whether.

  • Dawn

    wonderful. I must try these, if only for the jam part. ha ha

  • 5 Star Foodie

    Thank you for the information on Iceland. We would really like to visit there one day. The pancakes sounds wonderful!

  • Reeni♥

    I have always been interested in Iceland. One day I spent the whole day googling to try and find out more about the culture and food. Thanks for all the information!The pancakes look delicious! So light and eggy.

  • Henry

    Mmmmm… I love your pancakes and your icelandic guide I want to go!!! And when I do I am going to look up your guide. Thank you!

  • VigneronRowland

    excelent post. I must say that my early trips back to Europe also had a profound impact on me too. I have to remind myself sometimes when I get angry at Americans who dont travel, that not everyone can go back to Grandma’s house or the cousins, some people dont have that connection that makes them more than tourists.

    mmm speaking of pancakes, I going to tap some of the local black birch trees and make some brich syrup for my pancakes! The crepe style of pancakes IS a pancake everywhere in Europe, the fluffy buttermilk pancake is a very American tradition.

  • VigneronRowland

    p.s. the little clock is wrong … its set to California time? hehe it would be crazy if I was up reading about pancakes at 6:15am lol

  • The Little Big House

    yummy! great post :) sweet :) greetings from Austin!

  • Lisa

    Your pancakes look so good! I love the photo. And wow, Iceland–as much as I hate the cold, I’d love to go there someday.

  • Ulla

    Sara: Yes! It is great, and if you have homemade jam it is even better because it really showcases the jam. In Iceland some families go into the country and pick wild blueberries and make jams together.

  • Ulla

    Dawn, yes! That is exactly why I love them!:)
    THe tart amazing jam:)

  • Ulla

    Reeni: Really? I hope my essay helped a bit, it is sorta rambling but I tried:)

  • Ulla

    VR: Yes, traveling is essential to understanding the world. Oddly enough I always learned more about America when I traveled somewhere else!

  • Ulla

    MK: You are in Austin already? That is so cool! Wow! :)

  • Ulla

    Lisa,
    Thanks!
    Yeah everyone seems to want to Visit Iceland!
    It is a very “cool” place!
    hehe:P

  • Laura [What I Like]

    What a lovely post! I’ve had the idea of going to Iceland in the back of my mind for a while, but I must admit that you’ve inspired me! I’ll have to start with the whipped cream filled pancakes…

  • Ulla

    Laura,
    Thank you! it is a great time to go now because the kronur is so low.
    Otherwise it is expensive but I think it is worth it:)

  • Annie

    boiled fish on the sea, and fresh whipped cream made with local cream must be heaven on earth. Can’t wait to hear more about the wonders of Iceland.

  • radish

    speaking of amazing food blogs – yours is stunning… these pancakes remind me of the ones i grew up eating!! So good!

  • Ulla

    Annie,
    Thanks for visiting! I am glad you enjoyed the post, I thought it was too long!

  • Janice

    Your pancakes look great. I’m going to break out my crepe pan, and try them soon.

  • Robyn

    WOOHOO, thanks for the recs! I look forward to coffee and cake…or mostly cake. ;)

  • veggie belly

    we had a wonderful time visiting iceland last year! love all your pictures!

  • la ninja

    Hi, had a look at your post on Iceland (as I mentioned I would) and I really enjoyed reading it! :)
    The farm stays sound fantastic; will have to check details properly but they seem like a great accomodation alternative!

    Well, and those pancakes… What can I say but yum! :)

  • Ulla

    Janice: tell me how they turn out!

  • Ulla

    Veggie Belly,
    Would love to hear about your veggie Icelandic experience!:)
    Thank you!:)

  • Ulla

    La Ninja: yeah the farm stay is great! The secret is to stop at public pools:) They you have the best of both worlds.

  • miss minneapolis

    Beautiful pictures of the harbor – I loved it there!

  • Ulla

    Thanks Mindy! I almost want link your funny posts on Iceland.
    Have you read the Vanity Fair article on Iceland? I was laughing when the author was complaining about how Icelandic men are like moose or elk, they have to bump into you just because.
    I should have mentioned how Icelandic-Americans in North Dakota eat their pancakes with sugar because it is not the “rich man’s style.”

  • michaela

    you have such a great site! i will certainly try these icelandic pancakes. we had crepes on Easter for dessert. and then for breakfast yesterday. :)

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